Equipment
The following is a list of equipment that I use with my Jindos. I often get asked by puppy owners for suggestions, and I finally decided to list them here just in case other people may find it helpful. These are just the items I'm familiar with and use, and this in no way implies that I have tried all the products that have been tried by all dog owners. They are the thoughts of someone who has owned Jindos in the U.S. for ~30 years rather than a pet professional that specializes in training and grooming.
Id dog collars
My dogs wear ID collars all the time. Although they are microchipped, some chips may migrate whereby it can be a challenge to locate them if one doesn't have an idea of their location ahead of time. In addition, the average person does not own a scanner so a vet or animal control would need to be involved to identify and return a loose dog.
Furthermore, with the dog rotations we do in our home, having all the dogs wear a collar provides an instant handle to move the dogs around.
For ID collars, I prefer limited slip collars from either White Pine Outfitters or Mes Amis. Some people may refer to this style as Alaskan collars. These vendors use a softweb material that avoids coat breakages, which is a consideration for show dogs The coat might become flattened with wear, but a bath brings it back up in time for a show. I attach any tags to the dead ring (not the ring that a leash would attach to).
A properly fitted limited slip collar would prevent a Jindo from slipping out of a collar while on lead, while having a reduced risk of snagging and strangling while unattended. Such a collar is not recommend when the dogs are wrestling with each other as there is enough slack for a jaw to go underneath the collar. (Most of my dogs outgrow the wrestling play.)
My adults wear the 1" thick collars, and the pups go to their new homes with a thinner width collar.
Furthermore, with the dog rotations we do in our home, having all the dogs wear a collar provides an instant handle to move the dogs around.
For ID collars, I prefer limited slip collars from either White Pine Outfitters or Mes Amis. Some people may refer to this style as Alaskan collars. These vendors use a softweb material that avoids coat breakages, which is a consideration for show dogs The coat might become flattened with wear, but a bath brings it back up in time for a show. I attach any tags to the dead ring (not the ring that a leash would attach to).
A properly fitted limited slip collar would prevent a Jindo from slipping out of a collar while on lead, while having a reduced risk of snagging and strangling while unattended. Such a collar is not recommend when the dogs are wrestling with each other as there is enough slack for a jaw to go underneath the collar. (Most of my dogs outgrow the wrestling play.)
My adults wear the 1" thick collars, and the pups go to their new homes with a thinner width collar.
If coat breakage isn't an issue (ie. not a show dog), then an affordable alternative would be limited slip nylon collars from Alpine Outfitters. Our old rescue organization used to buy in bulk from them.
training collars
When the dogs are out and about and I am actively training them, I will tailor the use of various training collars to the dog or the dog's level of training. There are some Jindos that you can lead with a string and others that just are intensely wired to their environment.
If the everyday collar does not provide enough communication (in addition to the verbal communication), I move up to a martingale with a chain loop. The slight noise as the chain slips may be enough to draw their attention.
I don't find that there is a great difference in vendors although there is a plethora of materials, color choices, and options that may vary the pricing. The following is just the first google result that I found.
If the everyday collar does not provide enough communication (in addition to the verbal communication), I move up to a martingale with a chain loop. The slight noise as the chain slips may be enough to draw their attention.
I don't find that there is a great difference in vendors although there is a plethora of materials, color choices, and options that may vary the pricing. The following is just the first google result that I found.
The next level up for a training collar would be a chain choke or slip collar. Some people would rather phase this out as there is a lot of room to mis-use this tool. The collar has to be placed on the dog in the correct orientation so that the chain releases on its own, and this will depend on which side of the walker the dog is walking on. The timing to initially train a slip collar has to be exact so that it progresses to just a sound communication (chain slipping) and not an actual physical, choking correction. The length of the chain is also important. I've known a dog that was able to take off an oversized slip chain by lowering her head.
For me, brands honestly don't make a big difference when it comes to a chain slip collar, but Herm Sprenger collars are mentioned by others. Perhaps the Herm Sprenger can cause less coat staining from the metal? There is a variation in the chain links call "fur-saver", but frankly, my dogs don't wear the regular chain slip collar long enough to cause coat staining or coat breakage.
For me, brands honestly don't make a big difference when it comes to a chain slip collar, but Herm Sprenger collars are mentioned by others. Perhaps the Herm Sprenger can cause less coat staining from the metal? There is a variation in the chain links call "fur-saver", but frankly, my dogs don't wear the regular chain slip collar long enough to cause coat staining or coat breakage.
One variation that I have used is a chain with a fishtail toggle at the end. For big-headed dogs whereby getting a chain over the head means getting a very oversized chain on the neck, a fish toggle allows a more customized sizing. The chain goes around the neck without needing to go over the head.
The precaution that does need to be taken with this variation is to always have a lead attached to the collar, or else it can fall off the dog.
The precaution that does need to be taken with this variation is to always have a lead attached to the collar, or else it can fall off the dog.
One last tool that I will mention are prong collars. Personally, it's not a tool that I favor as I see more restraint and less training paired with it, but for a very select Jindo for a very short term, it may be appropriate. Sizing and positioning on the collar is even more important for a prong than a slip collar, and there is no leeway on fit even after the dog is well-trained to it. This is something that I would recommend a person goes to a training class with a trainer who can determine what is the right prong for the dog, with the appropriate back-up clip when/if a traditional prong fails and breaks apart at the links. Herm Sprenger is considered an absolute must-have name brand for prong collars.
A properly fitted/used prong collar is considered less apt for mishandling/injury than slip collars among balanced trainers, while slip collars are more acceptable than prong collars in an AKC venue. In an AKC venue, slip collars are considered more of a back-up to escaping on an already fully trained dog, where as prongs are considered an ongoing training tool and disallowed. The expectation is that only fully trained entered dogs are brought to an AKC venue.
Because there is negative stigma with prong collars, either due to their appearance to the general public or their implied lack of training among fanciers, there are various disguises that have been created. I mention these hidden prongs, not to condone people to break laws or rules, but because these types of prongs do eliminate the potential of the prong links breaking apart and the dog escaping.
Because there is negative stigma with prong collars, either due to their appearance to the general public or their implied lack of training among fanciers, there are various disguises that have been created. I mention these hidden prongs, not to condone people to break laws or rules, but because these types of prongs do eliminate the potential of the prong links breaking apart and the dog escaping.
Head Halters
Originally when the concept of head halters for dogs started, there were two main makers/versions available: the Gentle Leader and the Halti. The Gentle Leader could sit less comfortably on a dog as it could ride up towards the eyes, but the neck strap was fairly reliable in preventing an escape if the nose loop were to be dislodged - as long as the dog did not have time to chew up the nose loop. The original Halti was more comfortable to the dog, but the original was prone for the dog to escape if the nose portion of the halter was dislodged. The newer Halti comes with a back-up strap which can attach to the dog's regular collar.
There are additional head halters now available for dog owners, using a different attachment point/pressure angle. The Canny Collar, New Trix Dog Halter, and The Sidekick has the attachment point behind the head, so the side-to-side wrenching is minimized in theory.
I've purchased all of the above, and in the end, I've preferred dealing with the head halters with a simpler design that are faster to take on/off.
Care must be taken in using any head halter as a dog's neck is not nearly as reinforced as a horse's, and I prefer to apply leash pressure steadily instead of worrying about fast timing. I consider these tools more on the spectrum of restraint rather than training, but still, I've found that using a head halter (Gentle Leader) is very useful in physically interrupting fixations that a dog might do against other strange dogs. It can also assist in conditioning a heel position, with the head closer to the owner's hand instead of foraging ahead, until the dog is ready to transition to only a collar.
Care must be taken in using any head halter as a dog's neck is not nearly as reinforced as a horse's, and I prefer to apply leash pressure steadily instead of worrying about fast timing. I consider these tools more on the spectrum of restraint rather than training, but still, I've found that using a head halter (Gentle Leader) is very useful in physically interrupting fixations that a dog might do against other strange dogs. It can also assist in conditioning a heel position, with the head closer to the owner's hand instead of foraging ahead, until the dog is ready to transition to only a collar.
harnesses
I don't really recommend harnesses for walking as it's erroneously used for restraint on a pulling dog instead of training the dog not to pull. A harness provides leverage for a dog to pull even more, not less.
Most harnesses will also fail in keeping a Jindo from tucking their elbows in, slipping out of the chest straps, and then escaping by backing out. I strongly recommend a back-up safety clip to an escape-proof collar if a harness is used.
Most harnesses will also fail in keeping a Jindo from tucking their elbows in, slipping out of the chest straps, and then escaping by backing out. I strongly recommend a back-up safety clip to an escape-proof collar if a harness is used.
In addition, I do not recommend Norwegian style harnesses that have a chest strap that lay across the shoulders as it impedes the full extension of a dog's shoulders and upper legs. I certainly do not recommend front attaching harnesses that pinch together the front of the puppy as it could potentially affect the growth of the puppy's forequarters. Instead, H or Y harnesses are the types I would recommend.
So with all this accounted for, I have these harnesses in use with a safety cord attached to a limited slip collar. I used them in scenting sports like NASDA and in hikes where I might want the dog to help pull me up an incline.
leads/leashes
I prefer 6 ft leather leads for everyday walks and biothane leads for longer leads that might get dragged on the ground. If I have a visiting dog that had developed the bad habit of biting/slicing a leash, I might pull out the very seldomly-used chain leash if soaking a fabric leash with Bitter Apple or a foul-tasting spray doesn't work.
I have no preference for vendors, but I do have a strong pickiness of snaps due to many snap failures that has led to a dog escaping.
I have no preference for vendors, but I do have a strong pickiness of snaps due to many snap failures that has led to a dog escaping.
For dogs that I absolutely cannot have escaping from a leash, I will use a locking swivel carabiner. My current favorite is the brass one offered by Bold Lead Designs. Some other locking swivel carabiners are inspired by mountain climbing carabiners, but they are rather bulky.
show collar/lead
I prefer show collars and leads that closely match the dog's coat color rather than colorful, expensive leads that I would mourn the loss of if it were ever to get lost or chewed on.
For adults, I prefer using a show collar and lead that are separate pieces.
I prefer a nylon show collar over a chain show collar for the peace of mind that I could cut off the tighter show collar in an emergency, and I tell novices to avoid snake-chain collars that could break if it becomes bent upon itself. If a chain collar must be used for added control, use one that has open links instead of the snake links.
For adults, I prefer using a show collar and lead that are separate pieces.
I prefer a nylon show collar over a chain show collar for the peace of mind that I could cut off the tighter show collar in an emergency, and I tell novices to avoid snake-chain collars that could break if it becomes bent upon itself. If a chain collar must be used for added control, use one that has open links instead of the snake links.
I prefer a simple paracord/parachute show lead with a clip, but if there is a concern that the clip may fail, a loop attachment instead of a clip is an option. I do a lot of loose lead in the show ring, and so I prefer a 48" length over the shorter lengths that are visually cleaner and faster to gather up.
For a young puppy, I have used a Resco lead with a sliding clip as collar sizes will change as the puppy grows. My thinking is that a puppy will simply not have the power that an adult has, and so I don't have worries about the sliding clip failing.
Dog brushes
SLICKER BRUSH (for Undercoat & Guard Hairs)
If a person can only own one type of brush, I would recommend that they should get a good slicker brush.
The medium-sized Chris Christensen Big G Slicker (aka coral brush) is probably the one I would regard as the best for a decently-coated Jindo; however, the price point is admittedly pretty steep. This would be a purchase I would strongly recommend to wait until a Black Friday sale.
There is a good knock-off brand that is reviewed favorably by professional groomers on Amazon. I personally have this knock-off brand, and although I get twinges to level up to the Chris Christensen Big G Slicker (similar to the twinges I get to buy the latest and greatest iPad Pro), so far the knock-off brand is still performing well and there is no need to buy a different brush. I only use this slicker dry instead of wet, so that may be increasing my mileage with the brush.
If a person can only own one type of brush, I would recommend that they should get a good slicker brush.
The medium-sized Chris Christensen Big G Slicker (aka coral brush) is probably the one I would regard as the best for a decently-coated Jindo; however, the price point is admittedly pretty steep. This would be a purchase I would strongly recommend to wait until a Black Friday sale.
There is a good knock-off brand that is reviewed favorably by professional groomers on Amazon. I personally have this knock-off brand, and although I get twinges to level up to the Chris Christensen Big G Slicker (similar to the twinges I get to buy the latest and greatest iPad Pro), so far the knock-off brand is still performing well and there is no need to buy a different brush. I only use this slicker dry instead of wet, so that may be increasing my mileage with the brush.
UNDERCOAT RAKE
When the undercoat is coming out in chunks, an undercoat rake become my favorite grooming tool. I still have an undercoat rake purchased from Petsmart over 20 years ago, so I can't say if there is a certain modern brand that is better than others.
Having two different lengths of teeth seems to be the trait to look for.
When the undercoat is coming out in chunks, an undercoat rake become my favorite grooming tool. I still have an undercoat rake purchased from Petsmart over 20 years ago, so I can't say if there is a certain modern brand that is better than others.
Having two different lengths of teeth seems to be the trait to look for.
PIN BRUSH
I would rate a pin brush as nice to have to brush out an undercoat and brush up a coat for show, but I would not rate it as essential as a slicker brush. I use the Chris Christensen T-brush to massage the skin of my dogs as they really enjoy the rounded tips. The T-shape is very ergonomic and makes brushing comfortable for myself.
I would rate a pin brush as nice to have to brush out an undercoat and brush up a coat for show, but I would not rate it as essential as a slicker brush. I use the Chris Christensen T-brush to massage the skin of my dogs as they really enjoy the rounded tips. The T-shape is very ergonomic and makes brushing comfortable for myself.
GREYHOUND COMB
Greyhound combs are commonly used in a dog show grooming technique called line-combing. They can also be used to brush out undercoat although my hand cramps after using this for a long time. I would rate this as optional if one already has an undercoat rake.
Greyhound combs are commonly used in a dog show grooming technique called line-combing. They can also be used to brush out undercoat although my hand cramps after using this for a long time. I would rate this as optional if one already has an undercoat rake.
CURRY BRUSH
I use a rubber curry brush or Zoom Groom to loosen shedding short guard hairs on the legs and head. The dogs don't enjoy the tugging sensation, so I use these tools wet during baths. I would rate these as nice to have for people who wash their dogs at home but they would still be optional.
I use a rubber curry brush or Zoom Groom to loosen shedding short guard hairs on the legs and head. The dogs don't enjoy the tugging sensation, so I use these tools wet during baths. I would rate these as nice to have for people who wash their dogs at home but they would still be optional.
additional dog grooming supplies
NAIL TRIMMERS
For adult dogs, I use a nail clipper or a nail grinder such as a Dremel with a sandpaper or diamond bit attachment.
For adult dogs, I use a nail clipper or a nail grinder such as a Dremel with a sandpaper or diamond bit attachment.
EAR WASHES
I usually give my dogs ear washes right after I finish giving them a bath at home. This is to ensure that any water that entered their ears would get treated. I find that they usually don't need additional maintenance between baths.
I usually give my dogs ear washes right after I finish giving them a bath at home. This is to ensure that any water that entered their ears would get treated. I find that they usually don't need additional maintenance between baths.
SHOWERS
Since I wash my dogs in my bath-shower tub, I use the following garden spray nozzle attached to a 7 ft shower hose via an adapter.
Since I wash my dogs in my bath-shower tub, I use the following garden spray nozzle attached to a 7 ft shower hose via an adapter.
I use this drain protector to catch all the dog hairs loosened during the bath.
FORCED AIR DRYER
I don't consider myself a hard-core groomer, and so I just utilize this lower-priced brand that seems fairly popular for pet owners. It really makes a difference in blowing out undercoat. Done outdoors, this controls the amount of hair that the dog may shed inside the home.
I don't consider myself a hard-core groomer, and so I just utilize this lower-priced brand that seems fairly popular for pet owners. It really makes a difference in blowing out undercoat. Done outdoors, this controls the amount of hair that the dog may shed inside the home.